I'm not sure who is more restless the guy in front of the camera or the guy behind the camera.I took these photo's from my seat on the train.
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
"Christmas Tree Sunset" in Mcloud Ganj
Mcleod Ganj,sitting on a mountain ridge at 1700 feet overlooking
Dharmsala in the valley.Yes a little haven in the sky amidst the mighty snow capped Himalaya's.I notice three monks elegantly dressed in burgundy robes.I greet there smiles with "Namaste" they giggle and keep on walking.Looking down I realise I'm wearing my bright red "Have you seen the Dalai Lama T-shirt?".I don't think they have!I than purchase a croissant from a shop with a sign that reads "frsh fish crosnt yummy dlishes"I deduce that a typo has been wrought.I find a stoop to enjoy my croissant on.I calculate that the only thing fishy about this croissant is it's about three days old.I share it with a dog,a new friend.He nods in agreement that the croissant is at least three days old.I spend the afternoon walking,getting acquainted with the town.My new friend tags along.I nickname him pugwash...pug for short.I purchase a fancy Flaro bracelet made of yak bone and a chessboard made of wood.The bracelet will give my wrist that sexy well travelled look and the chessboard I will use to make friends.The Dalai Lama in spirit is in all the shops.A photo of the man in his sharp looking bifocals graces every wall of every store.I ask the owner of one shop if he can arrange a meeting with his holiness?I tell him I'm from Canada and proceed to make an ass of myself drawing a parallel between the Dalai Lama and Anne of green gables. Unfortunately I was alone with not a friend in sight to stop me,so I continue with my absurd comparison.Yes see Anne (I call her Anne) graces all the shops and stores of Prince Edward Island.It may be a provincial law that you must have a picture of her holiness in your store,but don't quote me on that?I also make "note to self" that he seems to be getting a little steamed.I contemplate "what would Larry do?"Yes Larry David would take it even further.I once saw this Anne of Green Gables snow globe I say to my new friend.Yes picture this...The Dalai Lama in a snow globe surrounded by mountains-his big smile being snowed upon by big white fluffy snow flakes.A million dollar idea!
So what do you think?
Dharmsala in the valley.Yes a little haven in the sky amidst the mighty snow capped Himalaya's.I notice three monks elegantly dressed in burgundy robes.I greet there smiles with "Namaste" they giggle and keep on walking.Looking down I realise I'm wearing my bright red "Have you seen the Dalai Lama T-shirt?".I don't think they have!I than purchase a croissant from a shop with a sign that reads "frsh fish crosnt yummy dlishes"I deduce that a typo has been wrought.I find a stoop to enjoy my croissant on.I calculate that the only thing fishy about this croissant is it's about three days old.I share it with a dog,a new friend.He nods in agreement that the croissant is at least three days old.I spend the afternoon walking,getting acquainted with the town.My new friend tags along.I nickname him pugwash...pug for short.I purchase a fancy Flaro bracelet made of yak bone and a chessboard made of wood.The bracelet will give my wrist that sexy well travelled look and the chessboard I will use to make friends.The Dalai Lama in spirit is in all the shops.A photo of the man in his sharp looking bifocals graces every wall of every store.I ask the owner of one shop if he can arrange a meeting with his holiness?I tell him I'm from Canada and proceed to make an ass of myself drawing a parallel between the Dalai Lama and Anne of green gables. Unfortunately I was alone with not a friend in sight to stop me,so I continue with my absurd comparison.Yes see Anne (I call her Anne) graces all the shops and stores of Prince Edward Island.It may be a provincial law that you must have a picture of her holiness in your store,but don't quote me on that?I also make "note to self" that he seems to be getting a little steamed.I contemplate "what would Larry do?"Yes Larry David would take it even further.I once saw this Anne of Green Gables snow globe I say to my new friend.Yes picture this...The Dalai Lama in a snow globe surrounded by mountains-his big smile being snowed upon by big white fluffy snow flakes.A million dollar idea!So what do you think?
Saturday, December 23, 2006
The Paradox of our age
We have bigger houses,but smaller families;
more conveniences,but less time
We have more degrees, but less sense;
more knowledge,but less judgements;
more experts,but more problems;
more medicines,but less healthiness.
We've been all the way to the moon and back,
but have trouble crossing the street
to meet the new neighbour.
We build more computers to hold
more information,
to produce more copies than ever,
but have less communication.
We have become long on quantity,
but short on quantity
these are times of fast foods,
but slow digestion;
tall man,but short character;
steep profits,but shallow relationships.
It is a time when there is
much in the window,
but nothing in the room.
His Holiness
the XIV Dalai Lama
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Why travel?
We need to travel.If we don't offer ourselves to the unknown our senses dull,our world becomes small,and we lose our sense of wonder.Our eyes don't lift to the horizon,our ears don't hear the sounds around us.Our experience is restricted,as we pass our days that is both comfortable and limiting.We wake up one day and we have found that we have lost our dreams in order to protect our days.Don't let yourself become one of these people.The fear of the unknown and the lure of the comfortable will conspire to keep you from taking chances a traveller has to take.But if you take them you will never regret your choice.Sure there are moments of doubt when you stand alone,on an empty road,in icy rain,or when you are ill with fever in a rented bed.But,as the pains will come,so to will they fall away.In the end,you will be so much stronger,so much clearer,and a so much happier person,that all the risk and hardship you have endured will seem like nothing compared to the knowledge you have gained,and the life you have lived.
-Kent Newburn
'letters to my son'
-Kent Newburn
'letters to my son'
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Raul and his Goonda's!
I've kind of gotten away from The lonely planet guide to India also known by some as "The Bible".It wasn't really giving me that old time religion that I be needing!Though the writers were quite right about Jammu in stating "you really have no reason to go there" The next stop was Dharamsala-this is where his holiness "The Dalai Lama" calls home.If I was going to make it to Dharamsala I didn't have any choice but to go through Jammu.Arriving at 10pm that evening I was certain there would be a connecting bus out that night.If the bible says there isn't a reason to stay here than there must be a bus leaving for Dharmsala at 10:05 in the pm.I wish I could tell everyone that I didn't have the pleasure to spend the night in Jammu or that the Bible was so wrong and the town provided me with spiritual riches beyond one's wildest dreams and comprehension.
Well I did spend the night in Jammu,and it was a living breathing hell!Stepping off the bus into complete and utter chaos I decided first find out the status of the next bus to Dharmsala.The next bus leaves tomorrow morning at 8am and conveniently there is a hotel right next to the bus station.I believe it's name was Palace Jammu but I could be making that up.I was greeted by this fat greasy Dodgy fellow named Raul,very Indian name.Running his pudgy fingers through his wet,greasy hair than extending his hand out to me,"hi,my name is Raul" I unwillingly shake his hand,than ponder if this is what shaking hands with a wet sponge might feel like.Getting to the point I tell him I need a room,the cheaper the better.He takes me on a tour of the hotel,this is when I notice we weren't alone and several of his goonda's had also come for the tour. So we enter the room and the first thing I notice is the unmade bed.Definitely not a good sign!I give him my 300 rupees and he leaves.I lift up the mattress and get an ear full from about a half dozen angry cockroaches who didn't appreciate the interruption. I believe there was a meeting of sorts going on and I wasn't invited.My next observation was the giant rat droppings above the toilet.This is also when I noticed the massive hole in the floor...just big enough for a giant rat to crawl through.So I sit on my bed pretending to read,one eye on the page and the other on that giant hole in the bathroom floor.I look up at the clock-it reads 5:32...by the state of the room I calculate that time stopped here at 5:32 December 3rd,1963.Did something just move in the bathroom?I hear a scream come from down the hall.I start to sweat....my whole body itches!!I need to get the fuck out of here right now!!Over the years I have become quite the expert at packing and unpacking my backpack.Tonight I will shatter all previous records!Grabbing my bag I bolt out of the room into total darkness not a Raul or a flickering light in sight.I stumble into a room tripping over a body either lying dead or sleeping on the floor,which makes perfect sense at the time.Realizing I still have my room key in hand and hoping I don't run into Raul or any of his goonda's,I leap through a magical door landing in an alley to the right of the hotel.I look at my wrist which reads 1 in the AM.I don't wear a watch and will likely never own one.Seven more hours till my bus for Dharmsala arrives.His Holiness awaits!
Well I did spend the night in Jammu,and it was a living breathing hell!Stepping off the bus into complete and utter chaos I decided first find out the status of the next bus to Dharmsala.The next bus leaves tomorrow morning at 8am and conveniently there is a hotel right next to the bus station.I believe it's name was Palace Jammu but I could be making that up.I was greeted by this fat greasy Dodgy fellow named Raul,very Indian name.Running his pudgy fingers through his wet,greasy hair than extending his hand out to me,"hi,my name is Raul" I unwillingly shake his hand,than ponder if this is what shaking hands with a wet sponge might feel like.Getting to the point I tell him I need a room,the cheaper the better.He takes me on a tour of the hotel,this is when I notice we weren't alone and several of his goonda's had also come for the tour. So we enter the room and the first thing I notice is the unmade bed.Definitely not a good sign!I give him my 300 rupees and he leaves.I lift up the mattress and get an ear full from about a half dozen angry cockroaches who didn't appreciate the interruption. I believe there was a meeting of sorts going on and I wasn't invited.My next observation was the giant rat droppings above the toilet.This is also when I noticed the massive hole in the floor...just big enough for a giant rat to crawl through.So I sit on my bed pretending to read,one eye on the page and the other on that giant hole in the bathroom floor.I look up at the clock-it reads 5:32...by the state of the room I calculate that time stopped here at 5:32 December 3rd,1963.Did something just move in the bathroom?I hear a scream come from down the hall.I start to sweat....my whole body itches!!I need to get the fuck out of here right now!!Over the years I have become quite the expert at packing and unpacking my backpack.Tonight I will shatter all previous records!Grabbing my bag I bolt out of the room into total darkness not a Raul or a flickering light in sight.I stumble into a room tripping over a body either lying dead or sleeping on the floor,which makes perfect sense at the time.Realizing I still have my room key in hand and hoping I don't run into Raul or any of his goonda's,I leap through a magical door landing in an alley to the right of the hotel.I look at my wrist which reads 1 in the AM.I don't wear a watch and will likely never own one.Seven more hours till my bus for Dharmsala arrives.His Holiness awaits!
Monday, December 11, 2006
Population,pollution and corruption!!!
One reason to make the trip up to Kashmir is you get to stay in one of these fabulous houseboats on Dal lake.Before coming here in my deluxe travel coach from Delhi,I was promised copious amounts of marjuana and opium enjoyed in a state of confusion/delirium for a whole week....A WHOLE WEEK GOSH DARN IT!
Well sadly Delhi had the last laugh once again.poking fun at my weakness for joyous addictions and kicks!
Shakira is a well known Colombian pop star as well as an Indian water taxi. Hasham and I had a busy day ahead of us.First we were going shopping on the lake,next visiting one of Srinagar's many mosques than we would finish the day by visiting the apparent final resting place of Jesus.The story goes that Jesus actually escaped Crucifixion and headed for India.Living many happy years before dying in Kashmir.The whole week I was in Kashmir I spent with Hasham. This man has an amazing wealth of Knowledge about his people,India and life in general.Anything I would ask him he had an answer for and not only an answer but in the form of a beautiful philosophical metaphor.Indian people have a lot to say and aren't afraid of speaking there mind.I also learned while I was here that the Kashmir government sells power to the rest of India leaving Kashmir with no electrical current half the time.Dangola did say that India was known for three things-Population,pollution and Corruption!!!
Well sadly Delhi had the last laugh once again.poking fun at my weakness for joyous addictions and kicks!
Shakira is a well known Colombian pop star as well as an Indian water taxi. Hasham and I had a busy day ahead of us.First we were going shopping on the lake,next visiting one of Srinagar's many mosques than we would finish the day by visiting the apparent final resting place of Jesus.The story goes that Jesus actually escaped Crucifixion and headed for India.Living many happy years before dying in Kashmir.The whole week I was in Kashmir I spent with Hasham. This man has an amazing wealth of Knowledge about his people,India and life in general.Anything I would ask him he had an answer for and not only an answer but in the form of a beautiful philosophical metaphor.Indian people have a lot to say and aren't afraid of speaking there mind.I also learned while I was here that the Kashmir government sells power to the rest of India leaving Kashmir with no electrical current half the time.Dangola did say that India was known for three things-Population,pollution and Corruption!!!
Saturday, December 9, 2006
Hotpots,salutes and one armed hugs!
Having learned from my Delhi experience I had arranged to be picked up and made plans to stay in a guesthouse for one week.My rides name was Arafat who was extremely excited to see me offering hugs and chai right off the bus. Kashmir felt at first like a town right out of the old west.Tea stalls,fancy cloth house's and Kashmirian handicraft stores opened up onto the road.Auto-rickshaws zoomed by,on the other side of the street there was a heavy military presence waiting to be attacked by rebels waiting in the hills.This town had a pulse and I was happy to be here.The mode of dress in Kashmir is one hotpot,these really great flannel plaid pants and a shawl.The winters here can be very cold and there is no heat unless you count baseboard heaters that rarely work and catch fire from time to time.You put the shawl over your head with one arm tucked in to hold your hotpot and with the other you can eat,wave,give one armed hugs and even salute the soldiers if you wish.At the moment I needed a nap,tomorrow I meet the honey lady!
Friday, December 8, 2006
Have a kingfisher for health,beauty and wisdom!
I had no intention of going to Kashmir.It wasn't part of my non existent itinerary.The lonely planet warns against it,a Canadian went missing there nearly eight years ago after setting off on a trek only to be ambushed by some rebels.So why go to Kashmir?
My bus set out an hour later than the scheduled time.On the advice of Dangola I hurried so I could secure the back seat.The bus ride to Srinagar was going to be no less than 24 hours and anyone that has taken a long bus ride knows that the back seat is golden when it comes time to getting some shut eye.To my unabashed surprise the bus was only half full with me being the only westerner.Up to now I hadn't seen any westerners.Our bus driver looked like the Indian version of Ralph Kramden only with a bidi sticking out of his mouth.
After sleeping for who knows how many hours I woke up to that feeling you get when you fall asleep in a plane and look out the window only to see a blanket of white.Only this time it was a three hundred foot drop off a cliff.Our bus was roller coastering up the side of a mountain,hugging the edge than rolling down the other side with on coming traffic barreling our way.Every news article that I had ever come across over the last ten years concerning buses flying off cliffs in India killing all 28 Indians and the one Canadian came flashing before my eyes.All I could do was stare out the window and down into the Valley admiring the beauty trying to forget about the bidi smoking madman behind the wheel.Attempting to sleep I was cajoled from my waking sleep into the realm of travelling by bus in India,which ended up being more contemplative than meditative.Flying through the air like Charley Brown getting knocked off the mound by Lucy,my backpack landing on top of me wearing a crown of kingfishers circling my head while snickering.
My bus set out an hour later than the scheduled time.On the advice of Dangola I hurried so I could secure the back seat.The bus ride to Srinagar was going to be no less than 24 hours and anyone that has taken a long bus ride knows that the back seat is golden when it comes time to getting some shut eye.To my unabashed surprise the bus was only half full with me being the only westerner.Up to now I hadn't seen any westerners.Our bus driver looked like the Indian version of Ralph Kramden only with a bidi sticking out of his mouth.
After sleeping for who knows how many hours I woke up to that feeling you get when you fall asleep in a plane and look out the window only to see a blanket of white.Only this time it was a three hundred foot drop off a cliff.Our bus was roller coastering up the side of a mountain,hugging the edge than rolling down the other side with on coming traffic barreling our way.Every news article that I had ever come across over the last ten years concerning buses flying off cliffs in India killing all 28 Indians and the one Canadian came flashing before my eyes.All I could do was stare out the window and down into the Valley admiring the beauty trying to forget about the bidi smoking madman behind the wheel.Attempting to sleep I was cajoled from my waking sleep into the realm of travelling by bus in India,which ended up being more contemplative than meditative.Flying through the air like Charley Brown getting knocked off the mound by Lucy,my backpack landing on top of me wearing a crown of kingfishers circling my head while snickering.
Tuesday, December 5, 2006
Photos take two!
I somehow deleted my florence,Italy post-I have no real good reason however here are some pictures I took while in Italy.....enjoy!
Monday, December 4, 2006
Flaro,the butcher and some mutton.....
Safe in the confines of my hotel which also ended up being in a back alley with makeshift fires,three legged dogs and mad bony fingers!The lighting was better so the mad bony fingers didn't look so scary this time around.Leaving the hotel the next day the first thing that I noticed was the stench in the air.Imagine what human decay doused in cleaning products would smell like on a 100 degree day.And I don't exaggerate...for reals!!
If I was going to spend a day or two in Delhi I needed a guide or else I was going to either lose my mind or set one of these three legged mongrels on fire.Hey I'm only kidding-I love dogs!!!Especially the three legged variety.I would tell you about getting hustled by the ten yr old but that is of little consequence.The main thing is he got me to the tourist agency and they set me up with a guide for the day.My guides name was Dan short for Dangola!Dan took me around-he showed me Delhi's first mosque quwwat-ul-islam (1192-1316),the Red Fort that was constructed in 1638 and built by Mughal Emperor ShahJahan who also built the Taj Mahal and lastly to the Lotus temple run by disciples of the Baha faith.They believe there is one god and through time the manifestations of god appear in the world from age to age.In this age god has revealed himself through Baha u llah, whose name means "The glory of god" once inside the temple everyone remains silent to meditate.After the temple Dan took me to some handicraft markets-my job was to go in and waste there time pretending that I was interested in buying something.Once inside they take down Dan's car number and he gets gifts for bringing them business in the form of tourists.I had no problem wasting someones time for my new friend but after them bringing me tea and biscuits I felt kind of guilty so I bought some Kashmir tea.My host looked kind of disappointed and said something in a language that I couldn't decipher as I was leaving.Dan was so very grateful giving me an awkward hug.He asked if I wanted to come to his house for a "real" Indian dinner.I jumped at the offer since I was now starving and this is the type of experience I had come to India for.By now it was just after 6pm and the sun had already set.He asked if I liked beer and if I wanted to try Indian beer.I offered to buy seeing it as a fair tradeoff being that Dan was kind enough to invite me to his home giving me this amazing experience to write about.Once we picked up the beer Dan asked how I felt about Mutton.I told him that I have decided to become vegetarian while in India but if he wanted mutton please by all means pick up some mutton.One of my top three rules in life is never to deny one's craving for mutton.He smiled and told me he needed to stop off at the neighbourhood butcher to pick up the mutton.After zig zagging through traffic nearly getting pug washed between a bus and an elephant,zipping down alleyways,pedestrians leaping out of the way for there dear life,Dan laying on the horn closing in on the final lap of the Indian grandprix with a wild look in his eye.Dan really wanted his mutton!We arrived at the butchers....the alley was dark filled once again with makeshift fires and the stench of rotting human decay.Where is the butcher?Looking around,searching every corner of this alley I didn't see any neighbourhood butcher shop.Dan pointed at the far end of the alley.We proceeded...I see the silhouette of a figure in the darkness."What is he holding" I say to Dan.Oh my god he's holding an axe hovering above what looked to be a carcass of something that could have been human for all I knew.Dan jumped out of the car walking slowly towards the butcher.Some money was exchanged and after some chopping and laughing Dan had his mutton.
"So that was the butcher" I says to Dan.What was I expecting...A nice butcher shop nestled away in Connaught village.I tell Dan he is doing a fine job in preparing me for India.He gives me a confused look and shrugs his shoulders.We arrive at his house which is a one room garage which houses Dan,his brother,his wife and there new born baby.The meal is delicious,I thank them for having me as there guest and head back to the hotel.Tomorrow I leave for Kashmir!
If I was going to spend a day or two in Delhi I needed a guide or else I was going to either lose my mind or set one of these three legged mongrels on fire.Hey I'm only kidding-I love dogs!!!Especially the three legged variety.I would tell you about getting hustled by the ten yr old but that is of little consequence.The main thing is he got me to the tourist agency and they set me up with a guide for the day.My guides name was Dan short for Dangola!Dan took me around-he showed me Delhi's first mosque quwwat-ul-islam (1192-1316),the Red Fort that was constructed in 1638 and built by Mughal Emperor ShahJahan who also built the Taj Mahal and lastly to the Lotus temple run by disciples of the Baha faith.They believe there is one god and through time the manifestations of god appear in the world from age to age.In this age god has revealed himself through Baha u llah, whose name means "The glory of god" once inside the temple everyone remains silent to meditate.After the temple Dan took me to some handicraft markets-my job was to go in and waste there time pretending that I was interested in buying something.Once inside they take down Dan's car number and he gets gifts for bringing them business in the form of tourists.I had no problem wasting someones time for my new friend but after them bringing me tea and biscuits I felt kind of guilty so I bought some Kashmir tea.My host looked kind of disappointed and said something in a language that I couldn't decipher as I was leaving.Dan was so very grateful giving me an awkward hug.He asked if I wanted to come to his house for a "real" Indian dinner.I jumped at the offer since I was now starving and this is the type of experience I had come to India for.By now it was just after 6pm and the sun had already set.He asked if I liked beer and if I wanted to try Indian beer.I offered to buy seeing it as a fair tradeoff being that Dan was kind enough to invite me to his home giving me this amazing experience to write about.Once we picked up the beer Dan asked how I felt about Mutton.I told him that I have decided to become vegetarian while in India but if he wanted mutton please by all means pick up some mutton.One of my top three rules in life is never to deny one's craving for mutton.He smiled and told me he needed to stop off at the neighbourhood butcher to pick up the mutton.After zig zagging through traffic nearly getting pug washed between a bus and an elephant,zipping down alleyways,pedestrians leaping out of the way for there dear life,Dan laying on the horn closing in on the final lap of the Indian grandprix with a wild look in his eye.Dan really wanted his mutton!We arrived at the butchers....the alley was dark filled once again with makeshift fires and the stench of rotting human decay.Where is the butcher?Looking around,searching every corner of this alley I didn't see any neighbourhood butcher shop.Dan pointed at the far end of the alley.We proceeded...I see the silhouette of a figure in the darkness."What is he holding" I say to Dan.Oh my god he's holding an axe hovering above what looked to be a carcass of something that could have been human for all I knew.Dan jumped out of the car walking slowly towards the butcher.Some money was exchanged and after some chopping and laughing Dan had his mutton.
"So that was the butcher" I says to Dan.What was I expecting...A nice butcher shop nestled away in Connaught village.I tell Dan he is doing a fine job in preparing me for India.He gives me a confused look and shrugs his shoulders.We arrive at his house which is a one room garage which houses Dan,his brother,his wife and there new born baby.The meal is delicious,I thank them for having me as there guest and head back to the hotel.Tomorrow I leave for Kashmir!
Fear and loathing in New Delhi...
The descent into Delhi was taking forever.I was on a high from my four days in Italy and was frightened to death of what was waiting for me once I landed. I cleared customs,collected my baggage and my wits,it was time to face the chaos known as Delhi.One foot in front of the other I started to walk.I had banana custard on my mind and my monday afternoon breakfasts at sneaky dees.
Entering the foyer at Delhi international I was greeted by a few hundred of my closest friends.And they were all promising the best of the best that Delhi had to offer.Cheap motels,cheap cologne...a foot massage for 100% guaranteed enlightenment,almost free taxi rides,money exchange,car rental,people rental,a vacuum cleaner that comes with a monkey for all your cleaning needs.Everything was right here in the foyer at Delhi international.So I grabbed the first auto-rickshaw and told him to take me to the broadview hotel.We drove forever to discover that the hotel was booked up and I paid about two hundred rupees to much for the cab.Apparently my calm,cool,collected and I'm in charge demeanor wasn't fooling anyone.Thank god for me that the nice man at the reception desk was so,so kind to call around to find me accommodations.A crappy to half decent hotel in Delhi shouldn't cost more than 1000 rupees which comes to approximately $20 Canadian.So he gets off the phone all excited giddy with joy that he found me a place and it will only cost me 2500 rupees.I agreed and he gave me the directions to the hotel.I left and started to walk...the alley was strewn with makeshift fires,three legged dogs,moans and cries coming out of the shadows.The night had just become that much darker.The panic started to set in,the paranoia...what I would give right now for some banana custard.Someone was walking towards me out of the dark.I shouted "who goes there?"I think my feet saw the long bony finger before my eyes did because before I knew what was happening I was booting it down the alley running for my dear Canadian life.
Coming out of the alley I was cornered by three auto-rickshaws yelling incomprehensible things at me in Hindi.I was half listening looking behind me to make sure whatever was attached to that long bony finger wasn't giving chase.I asked to be taken to a cheap hotel.The hotel wasn't cheap but it was nice.It didn't take long for me to fall asleep dreaming of banana custard.
Entering the foyer at Delhi international I was greeted by a few hundred of my closest friends.And they were all promising the best of the best that Delhi had to offer.Cheap motels,cheap cologne...a foot massage for 100% guaranteed enlightenment,almost free taxi rides,money exchange,car rental,people rental,a vacuum cleaner that comes with a monkey for all your cleaning needs.Everything was right here in the foyer at Delhi international.So I grabbed the first auto-rickshaw and told him to take me to the broadview hotel.We drove forever to discover that the hotel was booked up and I paid about two hundred rupees to much for the cab.Apparently my calm,cool,collected and I'm in charge demeanor wasn't fooling anyone.Thank god for me that the nice man at the reception desk was so,so kind to call around to find me accommodations.A crappy to half decent hotel in Delhi shouldn't cost more than 1000 rupees which comes to approximately $20 Canadian.So he gets off the phone all excited giddy with joy that he found me a place and it will only cost me 2500 rupees.I agreed and he gave me the directions to the hotel.I left and started to walk...the alley was strewn with makeshift fires,three legged dogs,moans and cries coming out of the shadows.The night had just become that much darker.The panic started to set in,the paranoia...what I would give right now for some banana custard.Someone was walking towards me out of the dark.I shouted "who goes there?"I think my feet saw the long bony finger before my eyes did because before I knew what was happening I was booting it down the alley running for my dear Canadian life.
Coming out of the alley I was cornered by three auto-rickshaws yelling incomprehensible things at me in Hindi.I was half listening looking behind me to make sure whatever was attached to that long bony finger wasn't giving chase.I asked to be taken to a cheap hotel.The hotel wasn't cheap but it was nice.It didn't take long for me to fall asleep dreaming of banana custard.
Sunday, November 26, 2006
Leaving Toronto.....
He sits down at a long table and looks into his school geography
book with the maps of the world,the white sweeps of current,testing
the names to himself,mouthing out the exotic.
Caspian. Nepal. Durango. He closes the book and brushes it
with his palms.Feeling the texture of the pebbled cover and
it's coloured dyes which create a map of Canada.
Michael Ondaatje,
"In the skin of a lion"
Friday, November 24, 2006
In the beginning...
there was a flaro fandango. He travelled far and wide in search of italian coffees and ulimate enlightenment. We know that he has tasted the lattes, but what about the pakoras and masalas? Stay tuned...
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