Tuesday, January 9, 2007

VARKALA





So I hopped a train,saying goodbye to the ganga,the chess players and the great Sadhu's that line the river bed.Oh and I can't forget about the holy shit,the little old man with the tea towel turban,the Merudi guesthouse and the German that threw his passport into the river screaming that he's renouncing the world forever and ever and evermore!.My train sped off with the ferocity that only an Indian train can,the ocean in it's sights,steam rolling along to it's destination thirty eight hours later. Goodbye Varanasi!!!

Finding my bunk on the train,I quickly made some new friends introducing my chessboard as my travelling companion.The chess and card games made the hours pass and took us into the night.Khursheed and his family spoke very little Hindi or english,there first language was Tamil.But it didn't seem to matter,the will to learn and patience broke through our communication barrier.

They were heading to Trivandrum for the Junior Carrom Championships.Which is a game played by flicking coins into a pocket,and are identical to Checker pieces.You strike the coin into the pocket using your finger as your striker.It's also called finger billiards.Well after some explaining I was convinced that this was a game I could be interested in,so I promised I would show up in Trivandrum at the competition by the 3rd of January.First I had a date with the ocean and the sun that I just could not bring myself to break.

So Khursheed and his family of carrom players got off in Trivandrum and I continued on toward Eravikulam.That is where my ticket was made out to.All I wanted was a beach,a palm tree and some fresh pineapple.I was now riding in a car with forty men that were on a pilgimage.It seemed more like a party than a pilgrimage,but hey what do I know about pilgrims!They were all computer software programmers from Bangalore.They've been doing this for the last seventeen years.No women,only the men!

I switched bunks so they could all be together.Myself and another girl were the only non pilgrims in the car.She was coming from Chennai,a university student on her way home to visit her family.We talked about Ghandi,the political situation in Kerala and how much cleaner Kerala is compared to the rest of India.There slogan is "Gods own Country" which I was quick to repeat to anyone throwing garbage out the trains window.She also spoke of a place called silent valley,it's claim is to be so silent that you can't even hear the crickets cricketing.I suggested that maybe the crickets took a vow of silence.God I crack myself up sometimes!

I decided to get off at Varkala,a couple stops after my scheduled stop.I hadn't seen the ticket inspector in awhile so I figured that I was safe.I said goodbye to the pilgrims and my non pilgrim friend.Hopped off the train,bought a juice and a bunch of banana's and set off on foot.

Arriving in Varkala the day before New Years eve without a hotel booked was not a good idea.Although they were totally full till the middle of January the people at Jicky's guest house were kind enough to let me use there phone and store my backpack till I secured a place to stay.Which I did!Next door at a place called Bina's.Actually it was more of a shack than a room,and it came with colourful giant red ants,spiders the size of small puppies,a giant cockaroacha that flies and skitters and a rat that only comes out at night...how thoughtful!On the advice of a well travelled friend and woman of the world.I decided to give my friends names.The giant red army ants will be the home team,than there is Ratzo Rizo, Connor the cockaroacha and I will give honourable mention to Sal the saavy Salamander.

There was another girl staying at Bina's who had like me,not booked a room and was a bit stranded.She was a little bit choked when I told her I was only paying 150 rupees/night,that is until she saw what I was getting for my 150 rupees.Quickly her average room turned into the penthouse suite.Tressa(Irish for Teresa)was on a holiday,three weeks in total.We wandered the beach,ate some fresh pineapple and exchanged stories.Another friend that I hadn't seen in over two years was coming to Varkala to spend New years with me.We last saw each other in Victoria,BC,both of us at the time expressing a keen interest in coming to India.Two and a half years later we land in India within a month of one another.

Tressa and Teresa got on well,having quite a bit in common.We made a plan to be enjoying an oceanside fish dinner come New Years eve.The water was warm and lovely,the three of us walked along the beach in silence with only the sounds of fireworks and the waves crashing on the beach to fill the quiet night.

The next day I slept in till 10 in the AM.Starting out in Kashmir waking up at 5am every morning I had worked up till 10am.Teresa and I had made a plan to start the year off with a three day juice fast.There is a juice bar on every corner in India...are Lassi's ok?We decided that yes Lassi's were ok.Ghandi would fast every Monday and take a vow of silence only communicating through the written word and hand gestures.

Teresa needed to get back to work and I had a Carrom championship to attend.I love the freedom that travelling alone allows.Jumping on and off trains,attending Carrom championships,taking in a beach,fasting....ahh life is truly beautiful!





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